Why Benares is sacred

Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend – and it looks twice as old as all of them put together.

- Mark Twain

The sanctity of Benares extends back into the historical past and well beyond. Human occupation at this location – on the west bank of the Ganges river between the Varang River in the north and the Asi River at the south (hence Varan-asi = between the Varang and the Asi) has been continuous for over 3000 years at least, and throughout that time it has always been regarded as a sacred place. Hindoos regard it as the most sacred city in India, the city that is itself a prayer, the city of Shiva.

What, though, makes it sacred? Why is this particular location especially holy? The entire Ganges River – Mother Ganga - is sacred, of course, but this particular area of the river is regarded as most sacred of all. Why?

One can read many explanations, most of them mythological, and most of them unhelpful. It was not until the present author actually came to the city and looked at its location – its topography – and experienced it as a place, that the answer to this question became obvious. And simple. There is a simple reason why Benares is a sacred place, and it is immediately plain to anyone who goes there and views the landscape. 

The reason is this: it is at this point in the Ganga valley – and only at this point – that the river changes direction and flows northward. At Benares the Ganges turns around and flows directly south to north with the city on the western bank. That is, it aligns itself to the celestial axis and its course suddenly conforms to the north/south/east/west alignments. Moreover – and this is the key point – by turning to flow northward the river seems to turn back to her source. This only happens here. It is the conspicuous feature of the landscape. One expects the river to be flowing south towards the sea, but at Benares it flows the other way, towards the Himalayas. One stands on the ghat watching the river. It flows the opposite way to what one expects. The Ganges – as it were – turns back upon itself, turns from its inevitable downhill south-eastwards flow, and goes briefly northwards, back towards the mountains from which she came.

The key idea is: returning to the source. The Ganges turning back northwards is a geographical expression of the idea – inherently spiritual in its implications - of returning to the source. The source is the mountains of the north, the Himalayas. But by extension the northern mountains point to, or imply, the northern pole. The mountains of the north are axial. They represent the celestial pole and the Ganga, then, correlates to its Milky Way. Such is the most fundamental (Hyperborean) symbolism at the heart of Hindoo spirituality. 

This order of symbolism is, it happens, especially Shaivite. The Lord Shiva is identified with the northern pole. Thus it is said that wherever Shiva looks, he looks south. The Shiva lingham, accordingly, is aligned northwards. This is easily observed in a place like Benares – a city hosting countless Shiva linghams. The shaft of the lingham is axial and so represents the pole (and the mountain). The yoni which supports it, and which collects and drains the offerings of milk poured over the lingham, represents the Milky Way/Ganga. The neck of the yoni is aligned northwards. The guardian bull, Nandi, usually stands in the same alignment. Every Shiva lingham refers to the celestial north, and the entire symbol refers to the basic correspondences between the stars and the earthly terrain. On the basis of this symbolism, the city of Benares – on the northward flowing turn of the Ganges – is sacred to Shiva.

There is a secondary reason that explains why the location should be sacred to Shiva, of all gods. This is a conspicuous feature of the riverscape as well. It is this: the valley that extends from the Sarang River to the Asi River is naturally crescent shaped. This can be seen very clearly from any highpoint in the present city and it must have been very apparent from on top the rocky rises on the west bank of the river before the city was ever there. In the hazy distance the river winds in a perfect steady curve. Its course has not changed for thousands of years because it here meets and is guided by a solid bedrock of hard sedimentary stone – the same stone from which the temples and steps and laneways of the city have been constructed. Where the river flows northwards – making the gesture of returning to the source – and flows against a long, perfect crescent of bedrock stone – there is the city of Shiva, Shiva who wears a crescent on his forehead. It is here that the riverscape forms an almost perfect crescent of Shiva. 

Above. The author's photograph of the northern cremation ghat in Benares where the cremation workers perform over 300 cremations per day. Hindoos are cremated here and their ashes are strewn in the Ganges. It is as a place signifying return to the source that Benares has served as a cremation ground for thousands of years. In Benares the river seems to be flowing back to its source - it is therefore a place for the dead and dying. 

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There are two truly worthy guides to Benares in print that the author strongly recommends. The first is the ultimate study of the city by Mdm. Mireille-Josephine Guezennee which at this time is only available in French. Madam Guezennee, a French academic also known by her Hindoo initiatory named Himabindu, has visited Benares for over twenty years and made a profound study of the city. The present author first met her Calcutta several months ago and discussed aspects of her work, and her deep love for Benares, at some length. She was kind enough to give the author tips on what to see and who to meet there. Her book, published with the assistance of UNESCO, subtitled An Initiatory Voyage to the Spiritual Capital of India, extends to over 500 pages and includes hundreds of Himabindu's own photographs. 

The second book is a 'Spiritual & Cultural Guide' to the Benares region by Rana P. B. Singh and Pravin S. Rana. This is the essential text for any visitor to the city who has more than a passing interest in the spiritual and religious character of Benares and the extended region thereabout. It is an excellent practical guide that includes intelligent, detailed, informative descriptions of the cosmogonic and religious landscape. It gives an account of all the major temples, and many of the minor ones, along with their history, significance and symbolism.

Yours

Harper McAlpine Black